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Hotend temperature fluctuations (6 replies)

May 16, 2019, 5:06 pm
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I've been struggling with temperature issues on my hotend for seemingly months now. While the bed temperature has always been rock solid, the hotend can either be very solid, or just wildly all over the place, sometimes triggering a thermal shutdown. I'm running an i3 variant with Ramps 1.4, Arduino Mega 2560 R3, and Marlin bugfix-2.0.0.

I'm running an E3Dv6 hotend that uses the thermistor cartridge. I'm connecting the thermistor to the Ramps board with the E3D supplied cable made for the thermistor cartridge. I've done the PID AutoTune.

What I'm seeing now, is terrible instability in the hotend temp at the beginning of the print, which smooths out later and either maintains through the rest of the print, or goes through other periods of instability. For instance, this is a print I attempted tonight. The first image is showing the last part of the first layer and going into the 2nd layer. This is not even the worst of the hotend fluctuations that occurred previous to what's in the image. You can see the bed switching from the first layer temp to the 2nd layer.


This image is at about layer 8. Temp levels out and remains very stable for some time. The third image shows this stable period.




Then around layer 20, the temp took about a 15-20 degree down spike and while it was climbing back up and I was going to grab a screen shot, it must have jumped the other way and triggered a thermal shutdown.

Hardware wise, I've swapped out just about every possible culprit. I have another E3Dv6 for another printer I'm building, so I swapped out the themistor cartridge with no change. I've gone through 3 sets of Mega/Ramps boards, no joy.

I've seen bugs in Marlin before that were causing some temperature issues, but those were fixed long ago and I see no open issues with Marlin currently. I just updated to the latest pull last night.

Could it be a power supply issue? The only thing I can think, if swapping the thermistor didn't cause any change is that something is causing fluctuation on the AREF which is then causing fluctuations on the readings. But I wish I knew why it always is just the hotend and not the bed. Seems like if it was a power supply thing, the bed would also be showing instability at the same time, but it doesn't.

Does anyone have any other ideas?
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Replace Ramps LCD by button (1 reply)

May 20, 2019, 4:38 am
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Hello All,

I am working on my first 1.6 Ramps, with Arduino Mega and 3 stepper motors + A4988 drivers ( 3 axes X Y Z). I will not pilot them via Marlin firmware, but only with Accelstepper library (I am not building a 3D printer). My goal is to pilot the motors, using push buttons. The problem is, I don't know where to connect the buttons ?
Since I won't be using LCD / endstops / servos, I have plenty of pins available on the Ramps, but I don't know how to adress them in my code. For exemple : Pins D16 to D32 are free, but the Arduino won't recognize "D16".

I found the "Mega2560 pinout" but I can't find out what Mega's pin is linked to Ramps D16 pin. Thank you for your help.

Rick
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DRV8825 and TL Smoother board? (no replies)

May 26, 2019, 2:25 am
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Hi y'all,

The past week I've been trying to get the DRV8825's I ordered to run silently with a TL-smoother board. I have seen some pretty remarkable results online in some videos but the stepper drivers are incredibly loud and whiney, almost as if they are completely churning up an already partially broken down ball bearing. You know what sound I'm talking about. I replaced then again with my A4988 drivers with the resistor hack and now the CoreXY machine I was working on runs fine without much noise but I just can't get my hear around it.

I have seen this video:
[www.youtube.com]

I'm using 42BYGHW811 type motors
2.5A
1.8deg/step

Running on Ramps 1.4 on 12v. I have read 'here and there' that these drivers are better on 24v but I have seen videos as well that prove it works well with 12v.

These should be exactly right for the DRV8825's with their high output current.

But somehow it doesn't want to be silent. These are the TL-smoothers I'm using:
[www.aliexpress.com]

Does anyone have experience with this?
I'm running the DRV8825's with a vREF of 0.6v

Can it be that the 4-diode models work better than the 8-diode models?
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Laser LA03-5000 wiring (2 replies)

May 29, 2019, 6:16 am
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Hi guys, I'm totally lost. I was searching about 2 days how to correctly wire Blue Laser LA03-5000 to ramps 1.4 board.
This laser has 12V input and separate pwm/ttl wires. I find how to control laser with no PWM ( just hook it to D9 same as fan.) but how wire correctly this type of laser ? Thanks for your advice .. I really want wire it corrent for safety reasons.

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L298N Ramps1.4 (2 replies)

May 31, 2019, 12:59 am
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Can i use L298N with a Ramps board?
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TMC2208: not all UART devices recognized (2 replies)

June 12, 2019, 3:04 am
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Hello there,

today I changed my drivers from A4988 to TMC2208 (UART mode). I soldered the pads on the bottom of the driver boards together and made some wires for the serial connection
[attachment 111655 IMG_20190611_212523_HDR.jpg]

As you can see the 1K resistor is soldered in line with the green wire thus the green wire should be TX. As mentioned here not all pins on the Mega2560 (I am using the MKS Gen L) are RX capable but this pinout should be fine (correct??)

  #define X_SERIAL_TX_PIN    40
  #define X_SERIAL_RX_PIN    63
  #define X2_SERIAL_TX_PIN   -1
  #define X2_SERIAL_RX_PIN   -1

  #define Y_SERIAL_TX_PIN    59
  #define Y_SERIAL_RX_PIN    64
  #define Y2_SERIAL_TX_PIN   -1
  #define Y2_SERIAL_RX_PIN   -1

  #define Z_SERIAL_TX_PIN    19 //MS default 42
  #define Z_SERIAL_RX_PIN    11 //MS default 65
  #define Z2_SERIAL_TX_PIN   -1
  #define Z2_SERIAL_RX_PIN   -1

  #define E0_SERIAL_TX_PIN   42 //MS default 44
  #define E0_SERIAL_RX_PIN   65 //MS default 66
  #define E1_SERIAL_TX_PIN   44 //MS default -1
  #define E1_SERIAL_RX_PIN   66 //MS default -1

And if I am not colorblind this should match it (correct??)
[attachment 111656 Bild1.jpg] [attachment 111657 IMG_20190611_213744.jpg]

Unfortunately only the E1 driver will be recognized by Marlin because M122 responds:
21:18:19.600 : X	Y	Z	E0	E1
21:18:19.634 : Enabled		false	false	false	false	true
21:18:19.636 : Set current	800	800	800	800	800
21:18:19.667 : RMS current	1436	1436	1436	1436	795
21:18:19.697 : MAX current	2025	2025	2025	2025	1121
21:18:19.699 : Run current	25/31	25/31	25/31	25/31	25/31
21:18:19.700 : Hold current	12/31	12/31	12/31	12/31	12/31
21:18:19.731 : CS actual		0/31	0/31	0/31	0/31	12/31
21:18:19.760 : PWM scale		0	0	0	0	14
21:18:19.788 : vsense		0=.325	0=.325	0=.325	0=.325	1=.18
21:18:19.817 : stealthChop	false	false	false	false	true
21:18:19.847 : msteps		256	256	256	256	16
21:18:19.875 : tstep		0	0	0	0	1048575
21:18:19.875 : pwm
21:18:19.878 : threshold		0	0	0	0	0
21:18:19.878 : [mm/s]		-	-	-	-	-
21:18:19.907 : OT prewarn	false	false	false	false	false
21:18:19.907 : OT prewarn has
21:18:19.910 : been triggered	false	false	false	false	false
21:18:19.938 : off time		0	0	0	0	5
21:18:19.968 : blank time	16	16	16	16	24
21:18:19.968 : hysteresis
21:18:19.997 : -end		-3	-3	-3	-3	2
21:18:20.025 : -start		1	1	1	1	3
21:18:20.025 : Stallguard thrs
21:18:20.027 : DRVSTATUS	X	Y	Z	E0	E1
21:18:20.056 : stst						X
21:18:20.084 : olb
21:18:20.112 : ola
21:18:20.141 : s2gb
21:18:20.168 : s2ga
21:18:20.197 : otpw
21:18:20.225 : ot
21:18:20.253 : 157C
21:18:20.282 : 150C
21:18:20.310 : 143C
21:18:20.338 : 120C
21:18:20.339 : s2vsa
21:18:20.339 : s2vsb
21:18:20.347 : Driver registers:	X = 0x00:00:00:00
21:18:20.353 : Y = 0x00:00:00:00
21:18:20.359 : Z = 0x00:00:00:00
21:18:20.365 : E0 = 0x00:00:00:00
21:18:20.372 : E1 = 0xC0:0C:00:00

I already tried switching the drivers one for another but it will only recognize E1 with any one of the drivers.

So I am hoping that one of you can tell me what I am missing.

Thanks in advance
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Z axis dont stop while printing (2 replies)

June 18, 2019, 6:59 am
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hello everybody.
i build my 3d printer with endstops on min and max of each axis. all work fine when i move them by the printer screen or the pronterface on the laptop, the axis stop in time as the endstop bright.

when i start printing the hotend increase temperature and then the printer makes a checkup for the limits. goes to X in and then to max, goes to Y min and the to max, and with the z axis goes to Z max and everything is good, the problem is when it goes to Z min it doesnt stop even it it the endstop.
i Will be very thankfull if anyone can help me.
i use mega 2560, ramps 1.4 and marlin software
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Adding an external SD Card Module and seperate LCD Controller (no replies)

June 23, 2019, 11:42 pm
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Hello Forum,

I want to change the LCD on my 3D Printer.
Currently I use one of the LCD2004 controllers with an integrated SD card slot that comes out to the side.
But I want to use one of the full graphic ones with a LCD12864. I don't like the touchscreens because they lack of some settings I can control via the LCD

But I also want to enclose the printer (at least partially) thus the SD card slot sticking out the side would be blocked off by an acrylic sheet.

So something like the MKS mini LCD12864 with the SD slot sticking out to the front would be great but I dont want to have the smaller display (on my big machine it would look quite jerky).

So my question is: If I get an external SD card reader breakout board how do I wire it up with something like these
Or are there any other simple solutions?

Thanks in advance for your help
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Heatbed does not heat up (no replies)

July 1, 2019, 3:56 pm
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I bought a Flsun printer cube and it came with the Makerbase MKS Gen L V1.0 board. Here is a link to the product.
After only a couple of prints I have encountered a problem, the heatbed no longer heats up.

This is what happens:
When the heatbed it's power wires are plugged in the LED indicating power is being routed does NOT turn on.
If I unplug the wires then the same LED indicator DOES turn on.
If I plug the wires of the heatbed directly into the power supply it does heat up.
The temperature is being correctly read though through the sensor.
And yes the wires are in the correct +/- terminals.

What is going on and how do I fix this problem?
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Connect Mosfet to other pins (2 replies)

July 28, 2019, 7:11 am
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Hi

Is it save to connect an external Mosfet (a small board) directly to any other pins on Ramps then D8 - D10?

I'm asking because my D8 port broke while the hotend was connected directly to it. My hotbed is connected to an external Mosfet on D10 and I have an additional external Mosfet in spare. So I could use it for the hotend but I'm not sure if other pins can handle it. As a quick fix I connected the hotend to D9, but this way I had to disconnect the fan.

Another possibility would be to replace the Mosfet on D8, but I would only try this if there is no simpler way to operate the external Mosfet. Btw. D8 isn't totally broken. However it needs a very long time to power up. The corresponding LED starts to glimm after 20 seconds and then it gets brighter and brighter, until it reaches full brightness sometime later. Currently I can still use D8 for powering the cooling fan in a kind of imprecisely way.
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Heat Bed not heating (9 replies)

August 7, 2019, 3:52 am
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Not sure if this is the correct place to ask this question, but I'll ask anyways.

I'm building sort of 3D printer/CNC machine and I'm having problems with the heat bed. It is a 400x400 heat bed of 12V and dimensions 410x410x3mm (www.amazon.es/gp/product/B07DN8P2HG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

I also putted a relay (www.aliexpress.com/item/32663806352.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.60aa4c4d7yJgV2) for safty reasons. The thermistor indicates correctly room temperature and when I preheat the heat bed (using repetier) a led next to D8 turns on and the led in the relay also turns on.

I dont think the problem is the power supply (30A 3600W 3CH), so I don't know what can be the problem.

I also checked al the wiring and the soldering of the cables connected to the heat bed.

For the wiring I followed this diagram (not excactly, because my power supply has 3 channels, so the wiring was easier)
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Re: Peloton Bike (-1 replies)

August 20, 2019, 8:17 am
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Yes, just take off the seat and really enjoy shafting yourself.


This is a reprap 3d forum, not a place to name drop your crappy products.
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Ramps 1.6 5v vdcc jumper (no replies)

September 3, 2019, 11:35 am
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Hi everyone
I'm changing the ramps on my 3d printer to a 1.6 ramps but i got a strange (for me) problem
I'm connecting the jumper at the 5v vdcc to power the BLtouch sensor, but it makes the whole thing kill, it won't power at any way and when i remove the jumper everything back to work, what could be the problem? I've tried disconnect everything and i got the same results.

Glad if anyone can help me
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problems with my setup (2 replies)

September 4, 2019, 5:33 pm
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I've been working on a hypercube 3D printer for a little while now and I have many problems, I have a ramps 1.4 sheild with an arduino. I have 2 z axis motors. and a full graphic smart controller from ZYLtech.

My first problem is that the display doesn't turn on unless I have the USB plugged in, as soon as I unplug it the display turns off. also the display gets significantly dimmer when the 12v power is turned on.

My second problem is that the motors do not spin at all, I have tried the ldc control, Pronterface , and uploading G code. When I tell them to move the display says that they changed position, but they never moved.

My third problem is that the endstops only recieve power when the USB is plugged in, just like the display.

Hopefully I gave enough information for some advice!
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Using Aux1 (no replies)

September 6, 2019, 9:19 pm
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Hi,

The following code control an LCD I can make it work on a arduino uno with the default pin rx(0)-tx(1):

How to use the aux-1 on my RAMPS to do the same program?

#include
void setup() {
// put your setup code here, to run once:
pinMode(13,OUTPUT);

Serial.begin(9600);
}

void loop() {
// put your main code here, to run repeatedly:
//envoyer image 0 à p0: 2 seconde :
digitalWrite(13,HIGH);
Serial.print("p0.pic=");
Serial.print(0);
Serial.write(0xff);
Serial.write(0xff);
Serial.write(0xff);
delay(2000);

//envoyer image 1 à p0: 2 seconde...

digitalWrite(13,LOW);
Serial.print("p0.pic=");
Serial.print(1);
Serial.write(0xff);
Serial.write(0xff);
Serial.write(0xff);
delay(2000);
}
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Motors problem (2 replies)

September 21, 2019, 6:50 am
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Hello everyone

I'm building a 3D Printer, everything looks pretty good, but when I tried to run it the motors just aren't moving, what is the problem?

note: the motors easy to turn by hand when the power is off, and difficult to turn when the power is on.

using NEMA 17 stepper motor - 1.8 ° - 1.7A.
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Mini12864 Panel - FYSETC / ramps 1.4 (1 reply)

September 22, 2019, 4:34 am
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who can help me with this problem
this the problem with me Mini12864 Panel - FYSETC
and the contrast is already at 255
I work with a ramps 1.4 and marlin 1.1.9 (Kossel Printer)
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Use SERVOS connector for heatbed SSR? (1 reply)

October 3, 2019, 12:43 pm
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Hi,

I want to move the heatbeds SSR from D8 to D11, which is in the SERVOS area. The reason for this is that I want o connect an additional fan to the D8 PWM output.
First: is it possible to switch the SSR from a SERVOS pin? My SSRs trigger input side starts at 3V, so in theory, that should work.
I have set up the firmware to use D11 for the heatbed, and connected the SSRs + with D11, the - with GND. I am not sure if this is the correct way.

thanks in advance!
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Controller Suddenly Crashing(?) When SD Card Plugged In (1 reply)

October 5, 2019, 5:37 pm
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My Kossel XL was running well until it suddenly stopped reading my SD card correctly. When I plug in an SD card the screen goes blank and occasionally flashes, a green light on the main board comes on and off. It looks like it's trying to over and over again. Not really sure what part to look at to fix this, any suggestions about what might be wrong or what to fix would be welcome.

It's a "RepRapDiscount Smart Controller" I've tried:
Reuploading the firmware,
Cleaning SD Card contacts,
Blowing in the SD card slot,
Formatting SD cards,
Using different SD cards,
Checked the ribbon cable pins were not bent,

The printer is about 3 years old and sat unused for about a year before being used for the last few weeks then suddenly having this problem. Occasionally lifting up or playing with the lcd controller will make it briefly flash and then display "Card Removed." Oddly when the SD card is in and the printer is plugged into my PC it seems to work, but only occasionally will it actually start a program.
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MKS Gen L and BL Touch Issues (no replies)

October 12, 2019, 10:57 pm
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I have a newer generation Tevo Tornado with an MKS Gen L controller that I am currently trying to install a BL Touch v.3.1.
I just flashed Marlin 1.8.10 modified for BL Touch. The probe comes to life just fine, but trying to auto home for the first time, the hotend gantry moves downward in the Z-axis with the probe extended as it should, but I will manually trigger the probe and nothing happens. The carriage keeps on moving towards the print bed and so I have to kill the power before it damages the printbed.
During the wiring part of the install, I did have to swap the black and white pins because the hotend was moving in the wrong direction(Z+).
Any Ideas? Better yet, is there Marlin firmware for Tevo tornado that supports an Infrared differential sensor?.
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